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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.